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The interface of sea and salt several metres below us created a reflective lens that, combined with the tannins washed down, gave the water a black appearance despite its clarity. Coupled with the low light and cloud, Doubtful Sound had a very mysterious and otherworldly mood. |
We rounded the rocky shores of the island. Across the water, the long silver stream of Browne Falls tumbled out of the clouds from its source at Lake Browne 800m above us. As we left the island the wind picked up and, with the waves building up from behind, we found ourselves surfing the odd wave - interestingly, we had less control of the kayaks with a strong wind at our backs than when we were pushing into a strong headwind and crashing into big waves at Abel Tasman. Katie led us quickly across to the more sheltered waters on the southern side of the Malaspina Reach. A distant vertical spray of water signalled the presence of a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins. We stopped and waited as they looped gracefully towards us, disappeared under our kayaks and resumed their looping journey behind us; they were obviously on a mission and did not plan to stop for our amusement. |
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Katie led us around into the Hall Arm of the Sound, where Reg and the boat were waiting for us in a quiet cove. After a stop for hot soup and lunch, we set out to explore this secluded and protected arm. It was a magical place, the water became calmer and more limpid as we headed further up the arm. The 600m sheer rock cliff of Commander Peak rose out of the water above us, its top another 650m beyond that in the clouds. |
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We passed several areas where recent tree avalanches had created long, narrow gashes in the vegetation on the steep walls and others where mosses and ferns were starting to recolonise the bare rock of old avalanche scars and continue the cycle. Waterfalls tumbled down the sides and the inky blackness of the water made it seem almost surreal. The best moment though was just stopping in the middle of the deep and still waters of the Hall Arm to breathe in the silence of Doubtful Sound, as one of the kayaks disappeared out of earshot further on (see below for explanation) - it was like being in Nature's Cathedral for a brief moment. |
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