Manu Reserve Jungle Trip (part 1) |
Day 1 - Cuzco to San Pedro Lodge |
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From here we started a steady and winding descent, stopping briefly at the Ninamarca arqueological site with its pre-incan tombs. Continuing on, we visited the village of Paucartambo, with its beautiful arched colonial bridge and plaza lined with old blue-balconied and white-stuccoed colonial buildings, home to 1000 people most of the year and 35,000 for the fiesta in July celebrating andean culture and the consumption of much alcohol. |
The central plaza at Paucartambo |
Colonial bridge - Paucartamba |
From Paucartambo, we climbed yet again and gradually became enveloped in a cloudy mist. Soon we arrived at Acjanaco, 3560m and gateway to Manu National Park. From here we started an impressive descent of 1800m on the hairiest road that I have ever been on, passing from grassy puna landscapes which morphed gradually through shrubby layers of increasing height into the tall cloud forest. This lush forest, dripping with moisture, covers the eastern slopes of the Andes between 2000 and 3500m above sea-level. |
Waterfall pouring down the steep slopes of the cloud forest |
The dense green canopy of the cloud forest |
A walk down the road to stretch our legs |
Stream on the valley floor of the Manu cloud forest |
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Back on the bus, we ccould not but be impressed by the skills of our driver - when a bus going down meets a truck coming up a dirt road less than two vehicles wide between a rockface and a 100m drop, how do you get by? I don't know, but after 15 minutes of measuring minute distances to sheer edges and jiggling the two big vehicles back and forth, we were on our way again! |
Bromeliad cluster in the lichen-draped trees |
One of many bromeliads high in the trees |
A small tree frog |
Nocturnal leafshaped grasshopper |
Day 2 - San Pedro Lodge to Erika Lodge |
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A sombre dawn in the cloud forest |
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Waiting for the cock-of-the-rock |
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bout ot set of on the mountain bike section |
8m tree ferns in the forest |
A cloud forest stream |
Cluster of butterflies at a salt lick |
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Rafting the not-so rapid rapids |
A still deep pool in the Kosñipata Gorge |
Upon reaching Conchacata, we had but a short wait before the bus arrived to pick us up and take us to the next village of Pillcopata, where we transferred from bus to rubber rafts for a trip down the Rio Kosñipata / Rio Alto Madre de Dios; again a lot of fun, with rapids that were not seriously scary but gave everyone a good drenching. |
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Loading up the river boats to start our way down the Alto Madre de Dios |
Capybara on the river bank |
Erika Lodge set between river and jungle clad hills |
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Day 3 - Erika Lodge to Boca Manu Lodge |
This morning was another 5am start; this time to travel 10 minutes down river by boat to watch the parrots visit a clay lick in the cliffs lining the river. We sat quietly in a row on a wide sand bank below the cliffs for an hour as the sun rose pink above the cloud draped forest and hills, but unfortunately it was to be another cock-of-the-rock experience. |
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Lining up to watch the parrots ..... |
... licking clay from the cliffs at dawn ... |
... too bad all they wanted to do was fly in circles above us |
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Farewelling our two Irish friends, who were only doing a 4-day trip and were heading back to Cuzco, the rest of the party set off down the Rio Alto Madre de Dios. It was a beautifully clear morning and, looking back, you could see the Andes chain rising above the green jungle; the snow-capped peak of Ausengate visible above the 3500m high range of puna and cloud forest covered slopes that we had descended two days before. Our long river boat travelled quickly, slowing only to negotiate the many sets of shallow rapids in the river. |
Heading down the river |
The majestic Andes rise above the river and jungle |
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On the flat, the river changed character, its form becoming less definite as channels braided their way along the broad stony bed, and our driver carefully picked the channels with maximum flow. The impact of the rainy season was becoming more obvious, with stretches of eroded bank and areas of snags from fallen tree trunks appearing. Each season, the river would choose new courses to run along its stony bed. |
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Red-headed vulture |
Black vultures waving to us as we passed |
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The jungle village of Boca Manu on Rio Madre de Dios |
Niños de Boca Manu who sought internet immortality |
For us it was only another two kilometres further down river to Boca Manu Lodge, set back from the shore in a jungle clearing. Finally after 6 hours in the river boat, we were back on land and tonight, after a night walk in the jungle accompanied by the sounds of frogs, crickets and cicadas, we would fall asleep in our small stilted cabin to the sounds of the Amazon. |
Day 4 - Boca Manu to Manu Reserve Zone |
By now, we were getting used to the early starts, as we were up again at 5.30am for another long boat ride; this time however, we would be heading upstream, pushing up the Manu River deep into the reserved section of the National Park for 6-7 hours. Here, traces of human civilisation would no longer be visible and we would finally enter pristine Amazonian rain forest, but not first without drama. Pola, our Peruvian companion, decided that she was unwell and could go no further - fair enough but she also refused to go to Boca Manu town where there was a doctor and insisted on staying in bed at the lodge, alone in the jungle. After an hour of negotiations with Yuber and finally a disclaimer signed to state she knew what she was doing, our party left without her. Strange girl, but "suerte, Pola". |
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White caiman sunning itself on the bank |
Squirrel monkey high in the forest |
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The green-fringed brown highway of the jungle |
White-necked heron |
Orinoco geese |
Black skimmer skimming |
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Blue-capped heron |
Capuchin monkey in the treetops |
A pair of storks |
A variety of rain forest trees |
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... as was the white caiman |
The odd other boat passes by |
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In the deep shade of the rain forest |
In the canopy the vegetation fights for light |
Amazonian lowland habitat |
Buttress roots of the rain forest trees |
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