After settling in, George, myself and Pasang, one of our guides, climbed 200m up the the Dubdi Monastery, established in 1701, followed by a visit to the sacred lake, Kathok Pochari, and Coronation Hill where the first Chogyal of Sikkim was crowned. Returning to our hotel in time to sample "Hit", the 8% Sikkimese beer, and enjoy another great trek dinner, we retired full of anticipation for the predicted 4-5 days of fine weather to come.

Yoksum to Bakhim - through the Sikkimese forest

We were also accompanied by several other trekking groups heading up or passing us on the way down, the tinkle of bells announcing the arrival of a convoy of dzo or mountain ponies, laden with trekking gear. Birds sang in the bush and a steady drone of cicadas in the trees above testified to the warmth of the day.

Suddenly, the huts of Bakhim appeared - we had reached 2700m and, after climbing more than 1000m, were glad to see our campsite on a grassy flat (well almost flat!). The resident squirrels were less pleased with our arrival. Time for hot ginger tea and biscuits, an explore of our site perched high on the edge of the ridge amongst the mossy boulders, giant lichen covered trees and curious Himalayan ground flora.

Campsite at Bakhim

In the meanwhile, our team had set up the tents (sleeping, dining, kitchen and toilet) - it was a very cosy site and there was no better way to fall asleep than to the soporific sound of the tinkling bells of the dzo grazing outside.

Barberry flowers

The curious cobra plant

Leaving the village we again climbed steeply for another 300m to reach a narrow ridge line. Here the track flattened out, following the ridge lined with a magnificent display of flowering rhododendrons, in every hue from cream to apricot to pink to deep red, set amongst the gnarly-rooted pines that rose majesticaly skyward. On either side, glimpses of snow-covered mountains told us that we really were getting into the heartland of the Himalayas.

One more upward assault on the ridge and we emerged at Phedang meadow (3700m) - a sloping barely grassed camping area scented with the earthy waft of dzo dung.

The cooking team had beaten us up there and we were greeted with a welcome cup of hot orange and a steaming hot lunch, which we enjoyed while basking in the warm sunshine and taking in the panorama of the snowy outline of the Singalila Ridge to the west and Jopunu to the east.

By late afternoon, the clouds rolled in and, after glowing briefly orange, hid the setting sun behind grey veil. The temperature began to drop sharply - it would be our first taste of camping out in the cold of the mountains.

Leaving the dining tent after another hearty 3 course dinner, we were greeted with a clear starry sky and the sight of a full moon rising behind the firs and illuminating the snow on the distant mountains. It was definitely going to be a cold night!

We were greeted by a still sunny morning and a good coat of -6ºC frost on the tents - the price to pay for such a perfect mountain night. Our breakfast table was moved outdoors to take advantage of the warm sunshine and replete once more we were ready to go. Unfortunately it was once again "ukalu, ukalu" - upward, upward!

Leaving the meadow at Phedang we climbed slowly up through the increasing stunted rhododendrons, the fir trees becoming smaller and scarcer until they vanished - we had reached the tree line.

Finally, at 3995m, we emerged onto a prayer-flag lined view point. A wide panorama of the mountains suddenly appeared as we topped the ridge; Janu, Rathong, Kabru, Kangchenjunga, Pandim, brilliantly white in the morning sunshine, with the sharp black tooth of sacred Kabur a sharp silhouette in front.

At last we were able to descend for a while, through the cream flowering rhododendrons and grassy clearings, a short climb to over 4000m and then another descent to the trekker's shelter at Dzongri, a vast exposed region carpeted with low brown juniper bushes and prostrate conifers.

An icy wind blew off the snowy peaks from the west and cut through our clothing, despite the sunshine.

After lunch, the fair Nello and Pam had a nap in their tents, while Pasang took George and myself up the rocky path through low alpine heath and the odd cushion plants to Dzongri-La, an 4380m pass. From here we could see Kabru in all its glory, plunging over 3000 m from its snow-covered cap to the glaciers and river valley far below us. It was well worth the effort, though it gave me my first real taste of altitude sickness - on return, I crashed in the tent with a bad headache, but fortunately an hours rest and all was OK.

Dzongri to Thamsing

Descending back to camp, we breakfasted in the morning sunshine, and then set off for a short climb across the kneehigh juniper and conifers of the Dzongri basin, climbing slowly at first and then descending past a herd of grazing yaks. As we walked, a low-pitched whistle from high above drew our attention to a group of eagles circling as they rode a thermal high above us.

As we descended, the watery roar of Prekchu, rushing down its boulder-filled bed from high above, became louder and louder. Finally we emerged at Kokchurong, where we ate an early lunch in the trekkers lodge. A cold wind was blowing up the river valley, as we followed the Prekchu upwards, before finally crossing it and continuing our climb along the rocky lateral morain of this perfectly formed glacial valley. All the time Pandim was growing larger at the valley's end.