Despite all this, the natural beauty overcame such disgruntlings, as we followed the well-formed path through the forest high above the blue green lake waters. In the distance, the Plitvica River dropped over the limestone cliffs in a 78m waterfall called the Veliki Slap. This was our target, and we followed a track as it zig-zagged down to the end of the small Kaluderovac Lake, crossing its reed-lined travertine barrier via an old wooden boardwalk. The boardwalk took us around the edge of the water, past a logjam of walkers trying to avoid getting their feet wet where water and board merged, and past a view point where we could look over the tumbling Sastavci Falls and down the gorge of the Korana River. To our left was the deep basin into which flowed the multiple strands of the Veliki Slap. The falls were even more impressive from below, sending out a fine mist of spray across the basin.

Backtracking a bit, we then continued on along the west bank of Kaluderovac Lake, looking out through the overhanging branches to the limestone cliffs opposite. The boardwalk now took us to the eastern bank, passing in front of the Veliki Cascades, where the water tumbled out of Ganovac Lake. We followed the shoreline beneath the limestone cliffs before climbing up past the rushing waters of the Milka Trnina Cascades, a long set of small falls and cascades over the barrier of Milanovac Lake.

Here we joined a smooth gravel path around the lake shore. As we walked along the path beneath the green forest canopy, we could watch the fish swimming by in the crystal clear water, while across the lake, the surface sparkled to the rising of the trout. It was a very soothing spot. Another slight climb, took us back over the travertine barrier holding back Kozjak Lake, largest of the 16 Plitvice Lakes, where the path brought us to a wooden boat dock beside a grassy flat.

The clouds that had begun creeping in yesterday, had taken over the sky and we were greeted by a grey and not-so-inviting morning. Still, I had a suspicion that the Plitvice Lakes could brighten up any day, so, after a hearty breakfast, we put the wet weather gear into our packs and set out to explore the other end of this watery wonderland. Quickly retracing our path of yesterday through the beech forest to the park entrance, we headed down to the boat dock and made the short crossing to the far side of Kozjak Lake. As we did, raindrops began to fall softly, creating circles on the deep green surface of the lake.

Disembarking, we put on our ponchos and headed off - our plan being to do a twisting circuit that would allow us to circumnavigate most of the upper lakes. One good thing about walking in the rain is that that it keeps the crowds away and we were enjoying the solitude, as we climbed up through the travertine barrier holding back Milinovo Lake. Here we could see just how porous a barrier it was, as we passed by a myriad of cascades, rivulets, mini-falls, seepages, trickles and pools, as the water poured over and through the vegetation-covered limestone beds.

We continued on around the western shore of Gradinsko Lake, looking across its still reflections of forest trees and waterfalls. A series of large and impressive falls lined the high barrier holding back Galovac Lake and the track wound around beneath them - Veliki Pristavci, Mali Pristavci and Galovački Buk - foaming streams of water tumbling 25m into reed-lined dark blue-green pools to percolate down a series of channels and pondages to the next lake. The gentle rain and misting spray created a special ambience and it was certainly a place to linger.

Climbing again to the barrier level, we crossed to the east side on an old boardwalk that wandered through the reed-covered fringes and across the fast-flowing outlet channels of a cluster of smaller lakes - Batinovac, Veliko and Malo.

Another short climb brought us up to Okrugljak Lake and its small but powerful waterfall below the exit channel of Ciginovac Lake. We were now reaching the last of the upper lakes and the start of the Plitvice system.

Passing Ciganovac Lake, we began to cross the marshy swamplands that lay at the end of Prošćansko, the second-largest and highest of the 16 lakes. A cold wind swept down the length of the lake to greet us and we were pleased that the track headed back through the reedy swamp after skirting the end of this bleak-looking water body.

Reed-fringed Prošćansko Lake

We found ourselves quickly back in the beech forest and on our way back down the lake system - this time doing reverse crosses to walk the opposite shorelines to those we had walked on the way up. It was a good way to see the upper lakes from every aspect - a view from high over Galovac and its backing wall of waterfall lined travertine, a close-up look at the powerful Veliki Pristavci falls and a chance to experience a second time the delicate beauty and colour of pond and cascade, fringing reed and overhanging branch.

Travertine steps between the lakes

After a bite of lunch in a shelter, watching the raindrops spread their circles on the lake water and the mayflies flitting erratically upwards, we returned to the boat dock just in time to catch a boat back down the length of Koszak Lake for a cup of coffee and apple strudel at the cafe at its far end - after all, we are on holiday. However, even with a bit of rain, the tour buses from Zagreb had arrived and crowds were picking up - it was time to head back through the beech forest, where the sound of school children yelling was replaced by the sound of forest birds singing, to our B&B at Jeserce. Talking about it over dinner, we declared the Plitvice Lakes one of the top waterscapes that we had seen - up there with Iguassu and the Victoria Falls, but offering a delicate beauty rather than sheer primal power.